There is something undeniably romantic about vintage cushion-cut engagement rings. They are not the loudest in the room, nor the flashiest - they have an elegance that whispers rather than shouts. A cushion-cut diamond is like a perfectly written love letter—timeless, deeply personal, and entirely captivating.
Before the popular brilliant cuts of today, before the princess cut took over engagement ring dreams in the late '90s, before oval diamonds became the Instagram darling of the 2020s, there was the cushion cut. But a cushion cut diamond isn’t one you hear about everyday, so today we’re investigating! Let’s explore the cushion-cut diamond - what it is and what you should look for when considering one for an engagement ring.
What is a Cushion Cut Diamond?
A cushion-cut diamond is exactly what it sounds like, a diamond shaped like a pillow. Not in the sense that you could rest your head on it (though you might be tempted to if you’re particularly enamored), but in its distinctive soft, square-to-rectangular form with rounded corners. The cushion-cut diamond has evolved over the centuries, adapting to changes in technology and shifting beauty standards. In the 19th century, the old mine cut, an early form of the cushion-cut, was the dominant diamond cut. These diamonds were hand-cut, meaning each one had slight asymmetries that made it unique.
The cushion-cut diamond originated from what was known as the "old mine cut," a style that emerged in the 1700s. In the 1700s, a lot of diamonds were mined in Brazil and the diamond cutters there preferred the cut because it maximized the carat - and ultimately the sparkle. These diamonds were cut by candlelight, meaning they were designed to sparkle with the warm glow of a flickering flame rather than the bright fluorescence of a jewelry store showroom. And that’s part of the charm—there’s an old-world beauty to an antique cushion-cut diamond that modern stones simply cannot replicate.
The Evolution of Cushion Cut Diamonds
By the early 20th century, diamond cutting technology advanced, and more refined cushion cuts emerged. The Art Deco era brought a fascination with geometric shapes, and many vintage cushion cut rings from this time feature intricate settings with filigree and milgrain details.
In the mid-to-late 20th century, round brilliant diamonds gained popularity, pushing cushion cuts into the background. However, in recent decades, the cushion cut diamond has made a comeback, particularly among those who appreciate a more vintage aesthetic. Today, modern cushion cut diamonds are cut to maximize brilliance while retaining the charm of their antique predecessors.
What to Look for in Vintage Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
When shopping for vintage cushion cut engagement rings, you need to know what makes this cut unique. There are a few things that set an antique cushion cut diamond apart from its contemporary cousins.
The Shape and Proportions
A cushion cut diamond is a study in balance. It blends the geometry of a square or rectangle with the softness of rounded edges, making it incredibly wearable and versatile. Some cushion-cut diamonds are more square, while others are elongated cushion-cut diamonds—meaning they have a slightly stretched rectangular shape. If you love the vintage aesthetic but also want the illusion of length on your finger, an elongated cushion cut diamond might be your perfect match.
The Faceting: Brilliant vs. Crushed Ice
One of the most crucial things to look at is how the facets interact with light. Some cushion-cut vintage rings have a "brilliant" faceting style, which produces large, distinct flashes of light. Others have what’s known as a "crushed ice" effect, where the facets are more fragmented, creating a shimmering, almost frost-like sparkle. The “crushed ice” cushion cut is also known as a modified cushion. Neither is better or worse—it’s all about preference. If you love the idea of looking down at your ring and seeing crisp, clear reflections, go for a brilliant cut. If you love a twinkling, scattered light effect, a crushed ice cushion cut might be your best bet.
The Durability and Comfort
A vintage cushion-cut diamond ring is built to last. Unlike the sharp corners of a princess-cut diamond, which are more prone to chipping, the rounded edges of a cushion cut make it a sturdy choice. It also sits lower on the finger than some other cuts, which means it’s less likely to snag on sweaters, gloves, or (if we’re being honest) the occasional wooly bathrobe sleeve.
Clarity and Transparency
One potential drawback of cushion-cut vintage rings? They’re honest to a fault. Because of their larger facets, imperfections within the stone (called inclusions) can be easier to see compared to other cuts. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, imperfections can give an antique cushion cut diamond its personality, but it does mean that if you’re looking for a perfectly flawless stone, you’ll need to be more selective.
Pros and Cons of Cushion Cut Vintage Rings
If you’re still on the fence, let’s do what any reasonable person would do when faced with a life-changing decision: make a pro and con list.
Pros:
Timeless Elegance: A cushion cut vintage ring exudes old-world charm and sophistication.
Durability: The rounded edges make it resistant to chipping and breaking.
Unique Sparkle: Whether you prefer a brilliant or crushed ice look, a cushion cut engagement ring offers depth and fire.
Comfortable Wear: The soft corners and lower profile make it less likely to snag.
Vintage Appeal: If you want a ring with history, an antique cushion cut diamond is about as classic as it gets.
Versatile Shapes: From squarer styles to elongated cushion cuts, there's a shape for everyone.
Cons:
Transparency Issues: Cushion cut diamonds can show inclusions more easily than other cuts.
(A Little) Less Sparkle than Round Cuts: If you’re after the maximum sparkle of a round brilliant cut, a cushion cut might feel a little understated in comparison.
Varied Shapes: Not all cushion cuts are created equal, and the difference between a squarish and an elongated cushion-cut diamond can change the look of the ring entirely.
Antique Cuts May Look Smaller: Some vintage cushion cut diamonds have deeper proportions, which can make them appear smaller for their carat weight compared to modern cuts.
Choosing the Right Setting for a Cushion Cut Vintage Ring
When selecting a vintage cushion-cut engagement ring, the setting plays a crucial role in the ring’s overall appearance and durability. A few classic settings include:
Halo Setting: A halo setting features a ring of smaller diamonds that surrounds the central stone and enhances its size and brilliance. This design maximizes sparkle of the center stone by reflecting light off the surrounding stones and is popular for adding a luxe touch to engagement rings.
Bezel Setting: A bezel setting is a setting where the metal completely or partially surrounds the gemstone, securing it in place. This setting offers excellent protection against chipping or damage, making it a great choice for active lifestyles while also providing a sleek and modern look.
Prong Setting: A prong setting uses small metal claws—typically four or six—to grip the diamond, holding it securely while allowing maximum light exposure. This setting enhances the stone’s brilliance and fire, making it the classic choice for solitaire settings.
Antique Filigree Setting: An antique filigree setting incorporates intricate metalwork, often in delicate lace-like or scroll patterns, adding a vintage, ornate touch. Filigree has been popular throughout history and even modern filigree settings are inspired by historical jewelry styles like Edwardian, Art Deco, and Victorian. Filigree settings make a very elegant choice.
The Romance of a Vintage Cushion Cut Diamond Ring
There’s a reason why so many heirloom engagement rings feature a cushion-cut diamond. It’s a shape that has stood the test of time, from candlelit ballrooms to modern-day love stories. A vintage cushion cut engagement ring is for someone who loves the idea of wearing history on their finger, who appreciates the beauty of imperfection, and who understands that the best things in life, whether love or diamonds, aren’t about being flawless, but about being uniquely, wonderfully, and deeply cherished.
So if you’re drawn to cushion-cut vintage rings, trust that instinct. Whether you go for an antique cushion-cut diamond with a storied past or a more recent cushion-cut vintage ring that carries echoes of another era, you’re choosing a piece that is as timeless as the love it represents. And, really, what more could you ask for in an engagement ring? Give us a ring and we’d be more than happy to help you find the perfect cushion -cut diamond ring for your love story.